Zitat:
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Zitat von Seahorse/E-TEC-Forum
To illustrate what may have happened is that the E-10 fuel when fresh from the refinery will work OK in cars, outboards, garden equipment, etc. if made to tolerate up to 10% ethanol.
The problem arises when the ethanol absorbs water from spray, condensation, or humid air over time. The moisture is attracted to the ethanol and when it reaches a limit in % and temperature, the ethanol and water mixture falls out of solution with the gasoline and migrates to the bottom of the fuel tank. This mixture is mostly ethanol with a small percentage of water. It is this super concetrated ethanol mix that gets into your engine's fuel system and damages components because the mixture may be 30, 40. or even 75% ethanol and that corrosive mixture will damage parts that are made for tolerating 10% ethanol. Steel parts will corrode, aluminum parts will start to form a white powder, and rubber parts will normally swell or soften as they decompose from the solvent action of the rich ethanol brew that was sucked up from the bottom of the boat's fuel tank.
The bottom line is to keep the fuel fresh, use a good filtration system along with a fuel additive formulated for ethanol gasolines.
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Fazit in Kürze auf deutsch - solange Ethanol-Sprit frisch ist, gibts kein Problem. Wird der Sprit alt, Phasentrennung beginnt oder es wurde Wasser aufgrund der erhöhten hygroskopischen Eigenschaften aufgenommen, ist die Kacke am dampfen.
Ein aggressives Wasser/Ethanol-Gemisch (30-40%, manchmal sogar 75% Ethanolanteil) setzt sich am Boden des Tanks ab und wird natürlich als erstes eingesaugt.
Dort richtet das aggressive Gemisch dann im Motor verheerende Schäden durch Korrosion und Zersetzen von Kunststoffen an, da diese nur für Ethanolgemsiche bis 10% ausgelegt sind.